Surf's Up Dude!

I got an introductory surfing lesson from a friend on Nimitz beach near Ewa Beach. It's a good local beach with waves about 3--4 feet high. I watched Blue Crush to prepare for my experience so I felt prepared...not so much! There is quite a lot to it - waiting for the right wave, paddling to catch it, and balancing to surf it. It's a challenge, but once you stand up and surf for the first time, you understand. It's addictive. The calm of the water and the sound of the waves is settling for even the most stressed out soul while waiting for the perfect wave. The rush of standing up and surfing in is exhilirating. Surf's up!